Day 2 Claverie-Aire-sur-l`Adour 25 klms

The scenary improves and the high peaks of the Pyrenees are visible indicating that we are entering Basque country, that unique language and culture that stradles the Pyrenees on the Spanish and French sides.

Inevitably, it takes a while to get used to the concentration needed to find the road signs. There is much construction in this part of the country and so a few detours affect the first few days.

In the middle of the day, I meet an old local farmer who with his braces, stout frame and old cap, looks like the very characterisation of a Basque. He informs that his family have been in the area for 5 generations and his tattered farmhouse would seem to suggest that the lineage might end with him.

Along the way, I pass a timber shelter for pilgrims and later discover that the host of our gite at Aire-sur-l`adour, a carpenter and hiker himself, has provided it. In fact one discovers that the best hosts are those that have undertaken the pilgrimage themselves. They well know the spirit of kinship that fellow pilgrims have and it is easy to spot those that see hospitality as a business only.

Aire-sur-l`Adour is a town steeped in much history having been a Celic, then Roman stronghold, until the Visigoths claimed it as their capital. One of their Princesses was to become martryed (St. Quitterie, beheaded for her conversion to Christianity) and her remains are still to be found in the church there named after her.

The night is spent in the gite `Maison des Pelerins`, hosted by the charismatic Jean Michel, who was so inspired by his first pilgrimage to Santiago that he returned to his town here and promptly opened his own gite to welcome fellow pilgrims. You can immediately sense in him, someone who lives an inspired life. Having borrowed much money from the bank to renovate this old house, he may never make a decent profit from it, but his joy in playing host is evident. He has also the local expert on pilgrimages and was instrumental in opening the welcome services at the local church. As a result of his passion, over 40 volunteers now take it in turns to welcome pilgrims.

Jean Michel informs that the following week, he and his wife will go to the Sahara, near Morocco for a too month trek.