Day 4 Miramont-Sensacq to Aracq-Arraziguet 17klms

The village of Miramont-Sensacq is very small and the night was spent in the communal gite. This one is hosted in turn by volunteers of the Association St Jacques de Compostelle. Most are retired and our two hosts, a couple in their 60`s, provide a wonderful dinner, which includes soup,magret de canard, rice salad and desert. The lodging is just 8 euros for the night and dinner/breakfast provided for a donation.

The march to Aracq is filled with exitement as I hope to rendezvous with two friends from last year`s pilgrimage. Paolo is a Frenchman of Italian descent who lives in Paris. Despite our close proximity the hectic life there has prevented us from meeting for more than two occasions since i arrived. Le Chemin (The Way) offers the chance to reconnect at a greater level of intimacy. Jean Luc is the other Frenchman living in Dax (near Biarritz.

Along the way in a forest, I pass a tiny medieval chapel, which still welcomes pilgrims as a sanctuary from the heat of the day. It is a welcome respite and a chance for some reflection, as the drops of perspiration spill from my brow.Chapels such has these remained open to pilgrims who in erstwhile days might sleep within overnight. This facility no longer exists, for security reasons. Vandalism and theft now cause locals to lock the doors at night.

Sometimes, one can find a bowl of prayer petitions, left by locals for pilgrims to carry on their behalf. Once again this tradition is dying out.

When Paolo and Jean Luc finally arrive, it is a moment of great joy. It is significant that our individual paths of life, so varied during the last 12 months should intersect at this moment on the pilgrimage. We share a great dinner of duck confit, pasta and salad. Pilgrims at various tables are engaged also in the sharing of experiences along the road. There is always a buzz of celebration at each dinner. The fact that we have all made it through the day`s toil and hazards, is cause enough for great joy.

This time Paolo has befriended a retired Brazilian couple who cannot speak a word of French or English. Paolo interprets for them through Italian and somehow this group of French, Portugese and English speakers can communicate with each other. Again, I truly believe that such things are possible through the sharing of a central premise or cause.

Smile meter is 7/10