Le Chemin, Sainte Jacques de Compostelle

After three years of undertaking this road, I believe I am qualified to write something about the experience and what I have learned of its historical, transformative, and civilising role in Europe.

At its peak during the Middle Ages, this pilgrim`s road helped unify and transform Europe, under the banner of Christianity. Hundreds of tributary roads pointed the hordes of pilgrims Westward to Santiago, near the West coast of Spain, a place reputed to contain the remains of the Apostle, Saint James (The Major). From all over Europe these ancient paths formed into four main routes in France, before uniting at the foot of the Pyrenees, near the Atlantic coast. Traversing the mountains, they formed two routes in Northern Spain, terminating at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostelle.

What transpired was an integrated, religious and socio-economic movement never before (or since) seen, with feudal villages and towns flourishing by the streaming pilgrims, from all over Europe. In the French region of Armagnac (SW France), the popular liqueur that bears the region`s name, was first exported abroad by the pilgrims. Many such commercial successes abounded and much of France’s renowned agricultural heritage can trace it's root to this epoque.

This was a massive (some reports have it at around 100,000 pilgrims per annum) movement of people across borders, never before seen or permitted. A letter signed by a local Bishop and coquille (sea shell emblem of St. James), the ancestors of our modern passports, were the only credentials that allowed passage across borders. However, they did not assure safe voyage against brigands, wolves and wars. Consequently, the chivalric orders (Hospitaliers, Templiers, Tuetonics, etc.) were formed, many of which have survived to modern times.

From an ideological and socio-political perspective, this movement provided a strong defence against the Islamic pressure from the South. The Islamisation of the Iberian Peninsula had surged inevitably North, across the Pyrenees. By 732, it had reached the outskirts of Tours (just 200klms SW of Paris), where the horde was heroically repelled by Charles Martel (The Hammer), grandfather of Charlesmagne, in a campaign that changed the course of Western civilisation.

To this day, some people in places like Munich, Zurich or Copenhagen, leave their homes by foot, in the traditional manner, and undertake the long trek to Santiago. One, who I met along the way, had left Denmark in winter by foot and had hiked for four months.

For the current majority, inspired by the novel of Brazilian, Paolo Coehlo (`The Pilgrimage`), the major starting point is at St.Jean-Pied-A-Port (http://timequest.blogspot.com/2008/08/day-8-ostabat-saint-jean-pied-de-port.html#links) on the French side, where I have witnessed the hundreds that race from trains and buses there, like marathon runners after the start. Others commence at major towns like Burgos (famous also as the birth place of Spain`s national hero and warrior, `El Cid`-http://timequest.blogspot.com/2009/09/day-1-burgos-to-tardajos-8-klms-well.html#links), or simply 100 klms before the finish, in order to qualify for the certificate of achievement.

For the less manic like myself, the four roads in France, each measuring around 700+klms, offer much more. Of all the experiences to be had on this wonderful road, the value of fraternity is paramount. Only a fellow hiker can understand the many trials of mind, body and spirit, which can be beleaguering. Blisters that can score up to 8 or 9/10 on the pain scale; sore backs, aching limbs, fatigue and thirst, underscored by searing sun, all not easily appreciated by the passing motorist or villager along the way.

It is an innate understanding, a sharing of similar experiences that binds. By contrast, those taking the way by other means like car or bicycle, cannot understand the same things. Theirs is a different association.

Whilst hiking alone, I have encountered much hospitality from fellow hikers, many of whom readily share food, medicines and other provisions. I find myself also easily contributing to this community. Ultimately, this is a very natural thing to do, where there is such affinity. There are those who take on greater challenges in hiking exclusively alone, something I am not prepared to do. To forego genuine camaraderie seems unnatural to me and I am reminded that in the past, criminals where sometimes obliged to conduct the solo pilgrimage, as punishment.

The virtue of perseverance is also something that is learned from such an experience. We all start with some sort of personal objective or aim, which will be invariably challenged by the vagaries of the day. These are tests of mind, body and Will. Some become acutely aware of the link between the three, whilst others will be overburdened by their personal expectations,and,fear of failure. The heat,the pain and the loneliness can lead to despair,the antithesis of perseverance.

I have adopted a philosophical attitude to the whole venture. I go forward each day anew, without expectation, but hope that all will go well for me. Thus far, it has worked. Each time I have been lost, someone has found me and pointed me in the right direction. I recall that on my first hike, I developed excruciating back pain and I could not carry my pack. Some people I had met along the way shared my things in their packs and this allowed me to proceed.

These things also happened to pilgrims throughout the ages, so our experiences are not unique, but timeless. The company of such people stokes morale, as does the sharing of meals, especially at dinner.This latter aspect is poignant on the French side, where the hostels (gites) most often provide delicious dinners and kitchens in which to prepare your own meals.

The joy around such tables with people in common, especially after a hard day`s work,is incredibly fortifying. It is difficult to fully describe the contentment that accompanies the sharing of a confit de canard (duck confit) and a glass of Quercy red, after a hard day.

Planning of course is necessary, as with all ventures, however, a balance should be sought between prudent organisation and adaptability to changing reality. Many are over-burdened by the various things that seemed like good ideas at the time. Each item that is unnecessary, weighs double on the troubled mind and injured body. In every hostel, one finds a treasure of stuff left behind, whilst others mail parcels of gadgets home. One quickly finds that we do not need many things at all and a new-found respect for the most fundamental emerges.

I find the setting of the objective the primary driver for the whole venture. However, it is the motivation for the objective, which will tested along the way and therefore is paramount in the planning process. There are many I meet, overly burdened by unrealistic expectations. One young Swiss was a beaming, healthy young woman who wanted to make the 700+ journey in four weeks. She would arise at 5AM and cover over 30 klms per day. I caught up with her two weeks into our respective hikes. She was by then,exhausted,injured and miserable.

It is wise to constantly ask oneself if the objective is to finish, or to experience and appreciate?

For those that can detach from the endless measurement of miles and time, there exists a world of natural beauty, wonder and discovery. Ancient tombs, ruins, monasteries and battle sites abound. In Conques (http://timequest.blogspot.com/2006/09/day-11-rest-day-conques-31-st-august.html#links), I descended into a verdant valley to discover this medieval town, which sits on the edge of a gorge, to find the place where Charlemagne was crowned. Some of his treasures still reside there.

I recall classical guitarists practicing in the ruined cloister of what was once a huge monastery, their notes resonating upwards, along the sides of the valley. The night was spent in the old abbey, where the monks still provide great hospitality. The hiker, hell bent on meeting objectives, is less likely to appreciate this sort of experience and towns like this become just another milestone.

There are those that decide to let the road shape the experience, discovery and learning. These tend to be the happiest of the lot and I can attest to this, having tried different approaches. At times, I have not been physically prepared and found that by taking it a day at a time, I was able to slowly adapt and condition myself. I now like to tell others that `I think with my feet`. If they are happy the rest of my body usually follows.

Finally, as a multi-dimensional learning experience, this road is hard to beat. I have discovered that our Western Civilisation evolved greatly after the confluence of peoples from all European countries, along a mutual path. This mutuality existed not only of common belief, but a socio-economic movement that formed rural and town communities and the hospitality industry in France. The resulting social cohesion produced amazing community building projects, art and commerce, which exist to this day. Paradoxically, it co-existed with wars, crusades and brigands, but the intrinsically nurturing, galvanising and redeeming experiences imparted personally, to like-minded people, are always there.