14 Sept 2009




Day 5 Carrion de los Condos to San Nicholas del Camino- 33 Klms
The day`s start reveals a parade of hikers/pilgrims and we are passed a few times by the `extreme sports/spiritual tourists`, who are obsessed with the attainment of the destination and not so much the experience or meeting with others. There are heaps of groups on mountain bikes, making this into a circus. The comical sight of tightly strained lycra and state-of-art two-wheeled technology seems to strike against the true virtue of this road.
The popularity of Paolo Coehlo`s book, has spurred the tourism industry and I find littered on the paths advertising material that promote the many refuges that have sprung up, some promising satellite TV, swimming pools and even solariums. Then again, is this any different from the commercialisation of this road during its peak in the Middle Ages, which saw it grow into a trade route, complete with professional pilgrims, thieves and merchants that sold pilgrim`s certificates and traded relics?
We decide to stay in San Nicholas del Camino, as the hospitality is warm with the patron promising to provide breakfast at 6:30AM. This is a major feat for the majority of Spanish who dine very late and rise late.
After dinner I finish outside with Paolo and share a digestive not dissimilar with Grappa.

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