Day 3 Ait Agouti-Izlmatdn-20 klms

We pass villages along the Qati river, our presence arousing the curiosity of the locals. Children approach in each village, asking not for money, but pens. Their capacity and eagerness to learn is evident, with all getting a basic education from the ages of 7-15, however the enrolment rates drop off dramatically at the secondary level, due to the high cost. Women are also less likely to receive higher education. The Berbers learn three languages (Berber, Arab and French) at the elementary level.

Traversing the river proves a bit of a challenge with strong currents. On each side there are lush agricultural plots with a vast range of fruits and vegetables being cultivated (almonds,figs, zucchini, tomatoes, nuts, onions, wheat, potatoes, etc.) and sold at city markets.

I learn that the traditional Berbers, in general, prefere farming and rearing of livestock to commerce. In fact they prefer working with their hands to that of machines, favoured by the Arabs. In these remote regions, it is possible to see their livestyles, in much the same way as its been throughout history. Men prepare the fields and then go onto other work, then women tend to the cultivation of crops and all are united at harvest time.

We stop by the 15 Century Kasbah (castle) at El Hot and have minted tea with its current occupant. Such invitations are customary for the Berber. Even strangers passing in the street are greeted with salutations, which can last quite a while, with invitations to have tea. The hospitality is touching and we share tea in the home of one of the villagers who knows my guide. Sitting on the famous Berber carpet and drinking tea, we are invited to eat some food.

I do notice that even in the more remote villages, satelite TV is appearing and heads normally turned to each other in conversation are now directed to it. I wonder what impact this will have on development issues, given that average viewing time around the world is currently 19 hrs a week. It is hard to imagine what the loss of that time might mean in terms of the sustainability of village life and their culture. It is one that has withstood Roman subjugation and the Arabisation of the continent.

Curiously, over 500 channels are offered free with the purchase of a satelite dish, which I sense may be a market penetration strategy,with pricing introduced once the habit is adopted.