29 Aug 2008

Day 5 Arzacq-Arraziguet to Arthez-de-Bearn 29.5klms




A crisp morning greets us as we depart. Each morning entails a 6:30AM rise, after hopefully a good night of sleep. This is not guarenteed of course, due to the snoring of fellow travellers who sleep alongside in the dormitories. There is also the occasional town festival, with its revelers who seem find you no matter where you sleep.

We are now formed into a group of six or seven, among whom is a large German theatrical producer from Berlin, who marches at his own slower speed, but somehow manages to catch the group at dinner time.

Hiking in a group of this size can be difficult as each has his own speed and needs, but when a group does form, it seems that all things average out. There are various times in the day, when some innate energy takes hold and one finds himself at the head of the group. This seems to happen with me when there is a climb involved and i have discovered that this suits me best, without knowing why. My theory is that i have an extended range of movement with my feet, due to high calves and this allows me to take greater strides when climbing.

We are now within the ancient French province of Le Bearn, at the foot of the Pyreneers and south of Gascoyne. With its soft and humid Atlantic climate, the land is fertile for the growing of fruit and wine production. A mixture of shady forests and open pastures for cattle grazing, has provided an economy based on agriculture and I am more and more intrigued by the Basques culture. Where their language and culture originated is a mystery, as their language is not related to French or Spanish.

We arrive at a gite that from the exterior, looks very run down, however within its exterior is a delightful lodge, with an elaborate kitchen. The Brazilian couple Vito and Evani, decide to cook us a traditional dish that looks between a paella and a risotto, which is greatly enjoyed by all.

After a huge meal, Paolo and I are somehow motivated to play squash at the court, which has been built on the property by the owner, who happens to be the village baker and a great host.

Smile meter is 9/10

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