Day 7 Aroue-Ostabat 23.5 Klms

Another fresh morning within a fog shrouded valley. The early start gives an advantage against the heat of the day, however doing one or two hours during the hottest period is unavoidable.

Some more wonderful pastoral scenes and I learn more about the Basque culture, which remains pretty unchanged, despite the progress of farming methods,etc. A patriarchial society, until recently only the house owner (male) had a voice at local community meetings. Land and property was passed to the oldest sons, while other siblings had to make do with setting up secondary houses within the property. Many were forced to immigrate to the Americas and Canada, where their farming methods and ethos of hard labour were rewarded.

The Basques are a very proud and parochial people, who seem to have been moulded by their harsh rural life. Physical strength is greatly admired and many games are staged where feats of strength are on display. Latterly this attributes have been used to great success on the Rugby field and towns and cities everywhere boast strong teams. Nearby Biarritz was a recent European Cup winner.

They still remain deeply religious, however I am not sure when conversion occured as various accounts even up to the 1700`s (including Daniel Dafoe`s ``Robinson Carusoe``) describe them as `barbarous`. They are accredited with various successful attacks against Charlemagne`s rearguard on his return from fighting the Moors in Spain, around the town of Roncesvalles on the Spanish side of the Pyrenees.

We decide to go past Ostabat so that we can have a shorter last day and enjoy the attractions of St. Jean Pied a Porte. We stay at the gite Escargot, run by a Basque couple and are deligthed to find that behind their hotel, they have provided an oasis of accommodation and relaxation for pilgrims.

That night we are given a Basque soup that is a lot like Minestrone, a saucy Basque omelette called `Piperade`, which is served with the famous Bayonne ham and sausage. Once again, i am reminded of the great joy that accompanies such food and company and resolve to take this ritual on, as a life-long pursuit. No matter how bad the day might have been, there is a conquest over such things, when we bring together good food and company at the end of the day

Smile meter is 9/10