Lodéve - Joncel 24klms 29th July

Another 6AM start, as we climb out of the valley to 900m+. Magnificant verdant, pastoral, vistas great us, as we climb above the timberline. Stoney paths make the hiking difficult, as rocks slide underfoot, however, we are grateful for the shade provided by the forest.

We set a sportive pace ahead of the guide book and arrive by noon at Joncel, having taken no stops. That makes 6 hours straight, which is quite tiring. However, as often happens on this trail, we find a most hospitable hostel, complete with pool.

This is just what the doctor ordered, as the pool provides much relief from aching legs and backs. The sun is blazing. We discover that Joncel was an important stop for pilgrims of the past, however, today, there is nothing to occupy interest, no grocery stores, or even a bakery. Small villages like this across France suffer the same fate-villagers now must drive to bigger villages to get their provisions. One wonders how the elderly get along, despite the bread vans that arrive twice a week, with not the freshest produce. We also note very elderly drivers of cars, many of whom should not be still driving.

I continue to experience bodily `purging', which is making me feel better, the high intake of water, lentils, chick peas, and fruit providing the `detox'. However, tonight our hosts provide a three course meal consisting of chicken liver salad, calamari and rice, followed by desert.

The company around the table provides great warmth and I am reminded how fortifying this experience has been through over 1200 klms that I have hiked along this trail. Joining us are three men from Provence, all friends: a banker, an insurance broker and another of unknown profession. They are doing this for the first time, and it is clear that one of them has not had much physical preparation. I recall my own first time, filled with uncertainty and lack of preparation. At least, a life time of sport gave me some basis, however, many just head off. To each, his own!

My smile meter is steady at 7/10