St. Jacques de la Blaguiere- Lodeve 15klms 28th July

A short stage after a big day yesterday. We leave early again and climb for one hour, before coming to a village that features a cemetery with a collection of ``stèles’’-Medieval headstones carved from limestone. These appeared all over Europe and symbolized the Greek cross and various other religious symbols. We pass corrals of the most beautiful pure blood Arabe horses and discover that Languedoc is renowned for such breeding. A favourite sport is ``L’endurance’’- races of between 20-160klms within 24hrs, or 2x100klms in two days. The health of the horse is of prime concern, with many checks along the way. As a result, it is a test of management/judgement and understanding between rider and horse.

On a rocky cliff we find a labyrinth of rocks, fashioned by someone to resemble a swirl. Some in our informal group think it to be a Buddhist mandala, while others believe it a Christian labyrinth-all paths meet at certain points! Later we discover that a huge Tibetan monastery exists near Lodeve.

 Along the way, there are beautifully verdant valleys, vineyards and forests, providing a rare mix of arid and mountain climates. We arrive in Lodeve in time for the bustling Saturday market and set about the task of finding whole grain breads, best for hikers. Sadly the region is bereft of such bread, but here there is plenty. Lodeve was a haven for hippies in the 60’s, and still retains that ambiance.

We see people of alternative lifestyles from all over Europe here- a hippy holiday perhaps? Our dinner is shared with two fellow hikers: Chloe, a young Frenchwoman who spent time in an Indian utopian city, Auroville (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auroville); and, Emmanuella, a young German undertaking a PHD in sustainable development. Such are the diverse range of people one meets on this road.

We have an aperitif by the bank of the nearby river. Dinner is contributed to by all and consists of lentilles cooked with bacon, onions, carrots and a salad. A nice rosé washes it down, before some watermelon. Such a diet, including large quantities of water, along with the hiking produces an improved digestion and purification.

Smile meter is 8/10 improved by the company of interesting people.