Day 1- Ait Tazarine NW- Akka Laasker 30 klms

We leave Ait Tazarine (south side of Atlas mountains, Southern Morocco) early to avoid hiking in the intense heat, with three village guides and three mules to carry our provisions. Our heading is NW direction towards Timassinine (30° 28' 48" North, 7° 43' 48" West). The terrain is totally flat, parched, red ochre rock and sand. There are few signs of vegetation. After 12 klms we start climbing to 1830 metres and look down across the valley below, barely making out our starting point on the horizen.

The ancient desolation is 360 degrees around us and is strangely inspiring. Nothing seems to `exist’ except our small band of five. I must trust that our guides not only know their way, but most importantly know where to find water. Sudden sand storms have been known to disorient even the most experienced guides. Ours are also very quiet types, although come highly recommended. Mohammed, the lead guide, is also the cook, whilst the other two tend the mules, which may be useful, if I am unable to walk. Some health issues are playing on my mind, however like always, I try to take things a step at a time.

We find an oasis that is almost like the idyllic place we are led to imagine. This one has drinkable water and we fill all our containers. This is our first encounter with what the Berbers call `La Source’ and its central feature within their culture and beliefs are subject to further discoveries.

The heat becomes intense, around 45 degrees and only a gentle breeze playing on sweat and the shade provided by my blue Berber head cloth. We are following the barely visible the tracks that nomadic Berbers have taken for millenniums.

These are the indigenous people of Nth Africa, first described by early Greek historian Herodotus (484-425 BC) as `nomads and cultivators’; by Saint Augustine, who was himself a Berber and other historians who rank them amongst the Canaanites of the Old Testament. Their unique language and alphabet is a mix of ancient Egyptian and Semite (Camps, 1995). In modern times they habit in no less than 12 countries including France, where they number 1.2 million of the country’s population (Wikipedia, 2010).

However, in such a remote region such as this, we will encounter the Berbers, living in much the same way they have done for thousands of years.

The guides prepare lunch on top of a stony hill, which offers 360 degree views from their tent, with its conical top. Lunch consists of mint tea, the yeast bread that they have always made, soup and various vegatables cooked with spices. After lunch we have a siesta. The fatigue, heat and full stomach contribute to a very peaceful repose.

After lunch, we head across more deserted plains in this valley, towards a dried river bed and follow the rare shade of pink laurel flower shrubs to the location of our first bivouac next to a little stream. Water is such a sacred thing here. I am told that if I really need to wash myself, I should use a hand basin and not bathe in the stream. The used water should then be used to feed any nearby vegetation. I wonder how long it will be until we who live in cities are obligued to do the same ? I recall that my dear father followed this same rituel in Australia for over 30 years.

I somehow feel refreshed and manage to climb a huge hill of rocks and shale to take a picture of our camp (see photo). The white tent is so small against an eternity of mountains and valleys beyond.