Salvetat-sur-Agout - Anglés: 20 klms, 3 Aug

We pass through a few forests, on what will be a relatively easy day. Right on the side of the path, we find a neo-lithic `menhir' of about 6 feet. The `menhirs' (from the Celtic Breton: maen-stone; hir-tall), date between the megalithic and neolithic periods in Europe (4500 and 2500 before our civilisation), which predates them to Celtic settlement in Europe. Interestingly, they are found not only in Europe, but Africa, Asia and other continents. The largest concentration of these have been found in the valleys of l'Herault, from where we have hiked.

For more click here:

http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Menhir

On a few occasions, we see deer gliding alongside us in the denser part of the forest. Such an amazing sight to behold; such elegance in movement, as we `bipeds' trudge along.

We arrive at Anglés in time to share our picnic with Thierry and Dominique, two men from Provence, who had previously been a party of three, before an injury ruled one out. Afterwards, we bid our good-byes to them, as they head off to meet their deadlines. Such an approach is different to mine, but I respect all orientations to this way, as it allows for all, and still bestows a common understanding that brings different people together.

These villages are sleepy to say the least, and the lack of civic pride does no justice to the magnificant countryside around them. Again, there are few places to buy provisions, and we must wait until 5pm for the small grocery to open. The gite (hostel) is the dirtiest we have encountered, with scores of dead flies everywhere and walls that need good cleaning.

Despite such small inconveniences, we decide to cook the rigatoni we find there, along with an idea to make  `veau marengo'-the celebrated dish served to Napoleon, after the battle of Marengo. It is shared with two Belgien hikers we have met, a father and son team, who appreciate the meal, as they cannot cook. It is washed down with a nice bottle of Gaillac 2009 (Chateau Clement Termes). My smile meter is back to 8/10

Click here for the recipe:

http://www.cuisine-france.com/recipes/veau-marengo.htm