

DAY 1 Burgos to Tardajos 8 KlmsWell here I am again on the wonderful St. Jacques de Compostelle, only this time on the Spanish side, referred to as `El Camino de Santiago`. Arrived in Burgos, the Castillian capital, which lies 294 klms South West of St. Jean-Pied-de-Port (the last stop on the French side of the Pyrenees) and seat of legendry national hero `El Cid` (Rodigo Diaz de Vivar-1040-1049). Walking around, I find his sword (bought by the town for 1.6 million Euros) in the local museum and discover that he is a central figure in the cultural development of Spain from the Middle Ages to recent times, including an Opera (Le Cid)and he was most famously played by Charleton Heston in the 1961 film `El Cid`.
El Cid Campeador (The Lord, Master of Military Arts), would have been around to see the start of a flourishing pilgrim`s road to Santiago. The amazing Gothic Cathedral `La Cathdrale Santa Maria de Burgos` (commenced in 1221), is one of the most beautiful in all Europe and along with the grand town stone carved arch, would have been a source of amazement to pilgrims throughout the ages.
Burgos has become a staging point for the many that have been motivated by Paolo Coehlo, author of `The Pilgrimage`, which has as its theme, this road.
On this occasion, I am here to meet friends Paolo and Jean Luc, who I had the good fortune to meet on the French side three years ago. This will be the third year in a row that we have met and walked together. I decided to come along and support them for one week, as they have pledged to go all the way to Santiago.
When they arrived, I was surprised to find them in poor shape. Paolo, in particular suffering from blisters around both feet. He had somehow succumbed the bane of inexperienced hikers-new boots! I later learn that they have not been eating well, the Spartan Spanish hospitality, not sufficient for long hikes like this one. After a short respite in the shade we head off towards Tardajos, 12 klms away, my companions having already marched 20 klms to Burgos. The countryside is very dry, flat and hard without interest. I am told that the next 200 klms will be more of the same.
Tardajos is a sleepy little village with little in the way of hospitality. The two small groceries are closed until 5 pm, so the best we can faire is a cold beer at the local bar and join the rest of the Spaniards in a siesta. When it is finally time for dinner, we are informed that the only place open, is without cook this evening. A frantic search for food ensues and we picnic outside our refuge with a few other hikers. Contrary to the French side of the road, Spanish refuges are badly organised and have no kitchen. The customary fraternity around the kitchen table at dinner is sadly missing. Despite such shortfalls, its great to be back on this road, with good friends and I am reminded of the redeeming quality of good fraternity. My smile meter is 9/10