Day 6 San Nicholas del Camino- Sahagùn and beyond- 27 Klms
Sadly, the final day for me and I hope that I have aided my friends through a difficult stage for them. I walk with them to Sahagùn and beyond for one hour, before saying my goodbyes and returning to Sahagùn.
Back in town, I settle down to a reflective `bocadillo` and beer, when I am surprised by two German hikers we met on the first day and shared some hiking insights. It is one of the aspects of the Camino that it becomes clear. Of all the hikers on the road there are only some with which one shares an affinity. These people, we tend to meet again and often for good reasons.
I vow a few things from this year`s experience: to do more of the same, to keep persevering and to find time for myself in reflection.

Day 5 Carrion de los Condos to San Nicholas del Camino- 33 Klms
The day`s start reveals a parade of hikers/pilgrims and we are passed a few times by the `extreme sports/spiritual tourists`, who are obsessed with the attainment of the destination and not so much the experience or meeting with others. There are heaps of groups on mountain bikes, making this into a circus. The comical sight of tightly strained lycra and state-of-art two-wheeled technology seems to strike against the true virtue of this road.
The popularity of Paolo Coehlo`s book, has spurred the tourism industry and I find littered on the paths advertising material that promote the many refuges that have sprung up, some promising satellite TV, swimming pools and even solariums. Then again, is this any different from the commercialisation of this road during its peak in the Middle Ages, which saw it grow into a trade route, complete with professional pilgrims, thieves and merchants that sold pilgrim`s certificates and traded relics?
We decide to stay in San Nicholas del Camino, as the hospitality is warm with the patron promising to provide breakfast at 6:30AM. This is a major feat for the majority of Spanish who dine very late and rise late.
After dinner I finish outside with Paolo and share a digestive not dissimilar with Grappa.

Day 4 Frómista-Carrion de Los Condos- 21 KlmsThe day started comically, firstly, with Paolo unable to find his socks and in frustration, threathening to stop his march. A Spanish hiker is perceptually challenged when confronted by his coffee mug upside down on the table before him. Someone sprinkled a little chocolate powder on top and it looks very much like a frothy cappuccino. Then, when I ask the hospitalier for a little more milk, a fight almost breaks out when he refuses. Paolo is most charged in his protest, as we promise to report the incident.
Fuelled by such outrage (this sort of thing never happens on the French side, where not asking for more would be received as a great insult), we march quickly. Like most days, we do not have a fixed destination, but will assess the objective along the way.
We arrive in Carrion de Los Condos and decide to rest there, also being a Sunday and are delighted to learn that there will be a fiesta that evening, with a parade. We find the old Monastiere de Santa Clara, which now serves as a refuge and I discover two Australian girls who are doing the road. Quite rare to find Aussies here and bravo to them for not sticking to the `Aussie ghetto` in London.
That night after dinner, Paolo and I take to the streets and view the carnival, which is as unorganised as the refuges, with no central theme. There are various groups of participants all dressed in transvestite garb. It makes no sense at all, but provides much laughter and I rediscover the value of mirth in undertakings such as long hikes. The smile meter is resting on 8/10

Day 3 Castrojeriz to Frómista- 27 klms
Our exit again is early and we climb the wall of this stoney basin, as dawn breaks behind us, alighting rich hues in the surrounding rock. Again the day`s march is tough in the heat, with uninteresting countryside by which to distract the discomfort. We march along a canal, along a stoney path, which does not help Paolo`s injuries. His pain level reaches 8/10, which is distressing for him and us all, but we urge him on.
We reach Frómista and I learn the it gets its name from the Roman word `Frumemtum`, which means wheat, which the region grew in great amounts. There are wonderful Roman (10th Century) Churches. One `San Martin` is just opposite our refuge, however it costs 1 Euro to enter, only to find the Church empty of its former glory. The great irony, one that i notice in many places, is that the functioning Gothic Churches with incredible works of art and sanctuary from the oppressive heat, have free entry, but few visitors. Quite perverse really! At Aix-en-Provence the Church which sits next the Picasso/Cezanne exhibition, houses amongst many works of art, an original work of Eugene Delacroix, but has few visitors. I find a seat amongst the empty pews and enjoy the moments of silent, cool meditation..sublime.

Day 2 Tardajos to Castrojeriz 31 klms
We leave at 7AM in an attempt to evade the worst of the afternoon heat, which reaches 38 degrees and much more when radiating off the rocky hills around us. The terrain is flat and dry with rolling, desolate plains, which promise little fertility. I cannot help wonder that if not for this historic road, the land would be abandoned to scavenging animals. We pass many ruins and old buildings, with no life stirring within.
17 klms into our day`s hike we find the remarkable ruins of Convent de St Anton, with the auto route passing under one its ancient arches. What is left of the convent is now used as a refuge, however with good momentum we continue to Castrojeriz.
Castrojeriz, is an amazing Roman village with an imposing fort perched on a stony hill behind it. Founded in 760 by the Goth Sigeric, brother of the Count of Castille and during its peak in the 14th Century, boasted four hospitals and four churches. Like Burgos, the village provided a strategic link against the Moors. However, like most villages we enter, everything is closed during siesta.
I try to visit the village, but the heat is intense and will allow me only to skip between shady spots in the road. When the stores open again, it is time to restock our provisions and drink icy cold beer in large iced glasses. Dinner or `menu peregrines` is a three course affair with horrible wine, but the food is plenty and costs between 8-10 Euros. Between us the comeraderie is great and I am appreciating the unfettered, male company. Smile meter is 8/10

DAY 1 Burgos to Tardajos 8 Klms
Well here I am again on the wonderful St. Jacques de Compostelle, only this time on the Spanish side, referred to as `El Camino de Santiago`. Arrived in Burgos, the Castillian capital, which lies 294 klms South West of St. Jean-Pied-de-Port (the last stop on the French side of the Pyrenees) and seat of legendry national hero `El Cid` (Rodigo Diaz de Vivar-1040-1049). Walking around, I find his sword (bought by the town for 1.6 million Euros) in the local museum and discover that he is a central figure in the cultural development of Spain from the Middle Ages to recent times, including an Opera (Le Cid)and he was most famously played by Charleton Heston in the 1961 film `El Cid`.
El Cid Campeador (The Lord, Master of Military Arts), would have been around to see the start of a flourishing pilgrim`s road to Santiago. The amazing Gothic Cathedral `La Cathdrale Santa Maria de Burgos` (commenced in 1221), is one of the most beautiful in all Europe and along with the grand town stone carved arch, would have been a source of amazement to pilgrims throughout the ages.
Burgos has become a staging point for the many that have been motivated by Paolo Coehlo, author of `The Pilgrimage`, which has as its theme, this road.
On this occasion, I am here to meet friends Paolo and Jean Luc, who I had the good fortune to meet on the French side three years ago. This will be the third year in a row that we have met and walked together. I decided to come along and support them for one week, as they have pledged to go all the way to Santiago.
When they arrived, I was surprised to find them in poor shape. Paolo, in particular suffering from blisters around both feet. He had somehow succumbed the bane of inexperienced hikers-new boots! I later learn that they have not been eating well, the Spartan Spanish hospitality, not sufficient for long hikes like this one. After a short respite in the shade we head off towards Tardajos, 12 klms away, my companions having already marched 20 klms to Burgos. The countryside is very dry, flat and hard without interest. I am told that the next 200 klms will be more of the same.
Tardajos is a sleepy little village with little in the way of hospitality. The two small groceries are closed until 5 pm, so the best we can faire is a cold beer at the local bar and join the rest of the Spaniards in a siesta. When it is finally time for dinner, we are informed that the only place open, is without cook this evening. A frantic search for food ensues and we picnic outside our refuge with a few other hikers. Contrary to the French side of the road, Spanish refuges are badly organised and have no kitchen. The customary fraternity around the kitchen table at dinner is sadly missing. Despite such shortfalls, its great to be back on this road, with good friends and I am reminded of the redeeming quality of good fraternity. My smile meter is 9/10