Day 6 Moncurq- Durfort (27klms)5th August

A tough one today especially for Julie`s first day and of course the pace of the group is fairly quick. Lots of climbs and descents Pass the beautiful town of Lauzerte- scene of many battles against all sorts of nations- I am reminded that against the convention of staunch French nationalism that this country is a conglomerate of so many.

The town is situated on top of a steep climb and so not an easy approach. The group is lagging in energy and i give each a massage. Florien (Austria), Jean Luc (Dax, France), Nora (Belgium), Hugette (Ardeche, Fr), Julie and myself- quite an interesting mix.

Julie and I stay at a farm in Durfort. It is very hot (37C)and i am feeling weary. Unfortunately the French breakfast is not ideal for long lasting energy and by midday i am very tired.
6/10

Day 5 Cahor- Moncurq (31.5 klms) 4th August

Left Cahor with Jean Luc at 6 AM to avoid the heat which reached 35C. We maintained a good pace reaching our destination in 9 hours with short rests only. Little shade and unimpressive countryside.

Not many on the road today, perhaps because of the heat and we cool off at the chapel of St. Jean de Froid. We stay at a great gite- Le Soillou- run by a man who did the St Jacques before. These former pilgrims make the best hoteliers- very hospitable. He informs us that he has hosted 20 000 pilgrims since Feb- a bit hard to believe since the association of St Jacques puts the total number for all four roads in France at approx 25 000.

Still, I can`t complain as the `repas` is wonderful- soup, cantelope & proscuitto, confit du canard with fig sauce and rice followed by desert.

Julie arrived here from Paris. Somehow everything works out despite the lack of full planning.

8/10

Day 4 Le Pech- Cahors 3rd August (11klms)

Only 11 klms to Cahors and I find that i have bonded with this group in a short time. It will be hard to say goodbye as most of them finish today. Last night stayed at farm `Garcou` and had the old farmer talk about the war and German soldiers raiding his farm for wine.

According to French regulations all alcohol consumption is regulated and only the remaining old hands are still allowed to make their own. The old chap also informs that it is so regulated that even to kill a cow, he needs to get approval.

Finally we reach Cahors and I am very sad to say goodbye to these genuine, great people. I feel sure that we will meet again and such are the wonderful experiences along the St Jacques de Compostelle.

Cahor is a nice `deuxieme` regional town with a cathedral (St Etienne) dating back to 650AD. Raided by Vikings, Huns , Sarrasins and even the army of Henry 1V until the current building was establised in 1119. The gite is an old convent with a beautiful garden
Later in Cahor I meet two bakers that have visited Australia, losing two of their sons to Noosa and Brisbane. Australia holds an element of awe to most French i speak with- a mythical, ancient land of fascination to the cultivated French.

Day 3 Varaire- Le Pech 2nd Aug (22.1 klms)

Had a great night at the `Gite Etape Varaire`. Met a great group of people from Paris, Valence, and Dax- Paolo, his sister Rina, Ernst and Jean Luc.

We feasted on saucison & salade, canard avec tomate, a great red wine `Quercy` and finish with citron tarte. At the end of the meal the old grandmother who has done all the cooking arrives in the dining room on crutches to the applause of the grateful diners. Such amazing food at cheap prices that would shame many Paris bistros.

Today I join this group who take a detour along an old Roman road. The scenery is great but not majestic like around Le Puy, Aubrac, Conques. Still, no complaints and i am feeling good.

We stop next to a farm shed for lunch and then have a siesta under a tree. Simple bliss.

Day 2 Cajarc- Limoyne-Varaire (25.7klms)

On my own and enjoying the solitary walk, trying to decipher my French guide book. Having to deduce a few things, as some references are obscure and not covered in my dictionary. What on earth is a `murette`? All I know is that there should be two of them and later I discover that it is a small `mure` or wall. French have a quaint way of making something petite by adding the `ette` at the end.

It is quite a challenge to orientate whilst translating french into English. Each time I am nearly lost someone turns up to save the day.

I make it to Limoyne and decide to go the extra 8 klms in the 30+ heat when I meet Stephene from Le Puy. He is doing it the tough tradtional way by sleeping outside and cooking his own food. This is really a must if one is going all the way to Santiago, Spain. The budget can add up otherwise. Usually average around 30 Euros per day max.

Enjoying the simple solitude along with challenges of the body.Back is ok, but feet are feeling it. My cheap but supple hike boots are not great for rocky tracks or hard bitumen.

Smile meter is still 8/10

Figeac-Cajarc (31.6 klms) Monday 31 st July 2007

Going past beautiful pastoral scenes- forests with little streams. Feels good to be back on `Le Chemin` and meet up with 58 year old German Rainer, who saves me a long days hike by informing me that I am going in the wrong direction. As in the case of last year, I have a French guide book to increase the challenge.

We hit it off and Rainer tells me that he started his hike in Germany 50 days previously. He looks to be carrying a huge pack and has lost 22 kilos in the time.

Somehow we manage to miss the way and get off track, which ends up costing us another 10 klms on a very hot day- some hard lessons are learned on this road!

He is fatigued and I leave him behind hiking another 6 klms to a village called Grealou, but am feeling beat after over ten hours in the heat.

Decided that from now on i`ll stick to the GR 65, as the others are misleading. Back is ok, but lower legs are mounting a revolution. At least I had a week of stretching before commencing, but this was my only preparation.

Smile meter is 8/10

St Jacques de Compostelle- Return to Figeac 30th July 2007

On board the TGV from Paris to Figeac via Brive in the South West of France. Last year I finished the ten day hike at Figeac and it hardly seems like a year has gone by. Did not dare dream that I could make it back so soon either after traumatic events in Australia, where I was looking after my seriously ill father.

A chance opportunity to suspend my contract arose and within 48 hours I had bought the Air France ticket and was flying to Paris. Like some dream I got a surprise upgrade to business class, which is very special on AF. I can say quite openly that I shed a tear upon receiving such a gift. The champagne, single malt whiskeys, Bordeaux, Medoc and other treats kept me more than sated as I consumed glass after glass before curling up in the bed that had minutes before been my seat. Huddled in the foetal position, all stresses from the past year evaporated like the spirits i was consuming.

Now on the way to the hike, I questioning if I am strong enough to undertake the hike. I console myself that like all previous ventures, I will take it a step at a time and if need be, will stop. The usual pre-adventure trepidation is therefore heightened.

Arriving in Figeac brings no sentimentality from the last time. It seems different, or is it just me that has changed? I think so!

So what lies ahead on the solo hike? Who will i meet this time? What things will i experience and learn from?