Day 14 Figeac- Paris Sunday 4th September

Well its a sad day despite the wonderful sunshine. The old canal with its boats; the market square with its cafes and the sparrows circling the cathedral spire. Time to head back to Paris by train later this afternoon, as projects require my urgent attention there.

We have a simple picnic on the bank of the canal and I can`t help but be nostalgic or Philosophic about `Le Chemin` (The Way). It is a part of me now and I am part of its history, like thousands before. I see the wonderful people i have met and the amazing places, some serene, some ethereal. It is an experience that encapsulates all dimensions of ourselves.

I understand why there are not many accounts about the experiential side of it. Its too hard to describe, too personal. I might endeavour to put something in writing one day soon, but I feel certain that I will not be able to describe it satisfactorily. Perhaps thats part of the myth of `Le Chemin`- it describes the way of life, but not in words. The words will be too simplistic to be taken as truths. Its something you have to experience for yourself.


But i must put something down here to end, so here are my highlights. I may add to each day`s log, as time goes and more things come to mind. I will also invite my fellow hikers/pilgrims to contribute their thoughts and photos- a collaboration, as it was on the road, as it should be in `Le Chemin`. There are some projects planned by some of us that came together. Inspirations that came along the way. But that remains for another time......

Le Chemin St. Jacques de Compostelle

Le Puy en Velay- St. Jean Pied de Porte

Highlights 21st August to 3rd Septembre 2006

 Walked approximately 250 klms in 11 days
 5 days without back pack due to back injury
 Fantastic experience on many dimensions
 Challenge of mind, body, spirit as well as culture/language.
 Met many people from various cultural backgrounds- none of which matter when you share the road. Some could not even communicate through a common language, but somehow we managed through sharing universal values.
 Many suffered from inexperience and physical ailments, notably feet (blisters, sores), knees (ligament), sore leg and back muscles, but most kept going.

KEY LEARNINGS
Fear of unknown- we don`t need most of the stuff we think we need or told we need.

Somehow about 10 of us solo hikers formed into a special group that helped each other and others along the way

Spirit of sharing and support was profound in the group in terms of food, medicines, hardships, etc.

Perseverance is the key to success of each day

The life on the road is diverse and this makes it fulfilling of our daily life expectations

At the end of each day (no matter if it was good or bad) was a celebration of life (good company, food, wine)

Objective is not to finish at all costs but enjoy at all costs.

Le chemin est `Le Chemin` toujours!

Day 13 Livinhac le Haut- Figeac 2nd September

Stage 11

25.3klms, 400m

Some interesting hamlets and we seem to be doing some big loops, but its interesting. We manage the pace quite well and we are stopped in one hamlet by a little old grandmother,who just wants a chat. We get the story about her chickens, her fall, etc. and later find other hikers who have had the same chat.

Again a lot of walking on roads and its now the turn of my feet to rebel. We pass a beautiful old stone wall and a stone dome shaped shepards refuge.

The body feels very strong and the tempo is quicker. A sense of victory fills me- as if i have conquered myself, the weak body. Perseverance does win out in the end and this sort of challenge is a great learning experience.

Figeac is a wonderful place that reminds me of other French towns like Toulouse and Carcasonne in the South, but a lot smaller. So pretty, but without many tourists.

That night we find a place that offers exquisite meals for just 8 euros. Hard to go back to Paris with these prices.

A fitting place to end this adventure. If things allow me in Paris, i might return on this trip to continue, or next time for sure.

Day 12 Conques- Livinhac le Haut 1st September

Stage 10

25.8 klms, 700m

Very hot day and now walking with Julie only. Unimpressive countryside, after the climb of two or three kilometers out of Conques.

A lot of it is on the road today, which is not good for the feet, but good for speed. I discover a good walking tempo, with the aid of my staff and the back is feeling fine. I am glad I persevered with it.

We have a roadside lunch and are passed by Jacques and Chantal a mature couple from Nantes.

Livinhac is not impressive at all and seems tired and rundown. If not for the occasional pilgrim, i wonder if it would exist at all! At the gite, we meet Hartmut who invites everyone for dinner and prepares a nice healthy meal. Everyone brings a bottle of wine and we have a good celebration, with Chantal providing the entertainment. Six bottles go down between ten and the next morning we are informed that Jacques and Chantal took a short cut, which was probably the wise thing to do.

But, I must say that its the nights that are the highlights. Simple sharing of food, wine and laughter. We are all the same on this road. It does not matter what you do for a living or where you come from-the road is all that matters.

Smile meter is 9/10

Day 11 Rest Day Conques 31 st August

REST DAY

The first rest day and finally the sun shines and is scorching on the stony roads. At a terrace cafe I say goodbye to Corinne who returns to Le Puy and Fred who goes onto Figeac, while I wait for Julie to arrive from Paris.

Its good to just sit there quietly in the vine covered terrace and look out on the valley below. Sparrows dogfighting everywhere and the sky is cloudless. Hmm bliss, and my back knows it!

Earlier I had escorted Fred out of the city and up the steep climb from the valley. I did this to test my back with my pack. It seems ok but feel I must continue with the anti-inflammatories.

Conques is a famous town, where Charlemagne was crowed and it features his treasures, along with the skull of St. Foy, a young girl martyred in 303 AD and said to be the inspiration for many miracles. Her remains are hidden in a statue of pure cold and encrusted with amazing jewels.

In the medieval courtyard at the side of the Cathedral, many young classical guitarists are practising and the valley rings with their notes. Later that night, they perform in the cathedral, which has excellent accoustics for such a performace.

Later that night, dinner in the Abbey and a repeat of the previous nights performance. Sleeping real well, but it hurts just to get up and stand in the mornings.

Smile meter 9/10

Day 10 Golinhac-Conques 30th August 2006

Stage 9

20.8 Klms, 300m

Hard to believe i have been on the road for nine days, without a break. More beautiful pastures and tiny villages.I try to make the most of it. A few days earlier i got a call from Paris with respect to some meetings about my education program, so I must return, even though now i would like to go all the way to Compostelle.

A few climbs and descents into Conques. Its worth the pain,as Conques is a real reward to the senses. As I descend into the valley, the Romansque and Gothic church spires dwarf the surrounding trees and I get the feeling i have stumbled onto something mythical.

It is a bit of a tourist trap there, but i decide to stay in the Abbey of the Cathedral. A labyrinth of spiralling stairwells and hidden doors leads to our room. That night the abbot speaks before the dinner meal and invites us all to the mass at 8:30 in the amazing cathedral. After that they play songs on a grand piano and then organ, whilst there is a light show that illuminates the giant columns everwhere. The effect is awe-inspiring to say the least.

Smile meter is 8/10

Day 9 Espalion- Golinhac 29th August

Stage 8

26.6 Klms, 650m

We start in good spirits, despite the rain. From the group that started in Le Puy, only Rene, Frederick, Corinne and myself remain, with Hartmut close behind us. So I walk with Frederick and Corinne, everyone else has gone home.

Very tough terrain, especially in the wet. My back is playing up and Corinne has a problem with her leg, as we literally limp into Estaine. Again we have trouble getting some food for lunch, but a kind local bar owner comes to the rescue.

Fred has the idea take a taxi to Golinhac and that proves to be the right decision, as the next 16 kilometres are very steep and dangerous in the wet.

That night we stay in a gite cabin on the mountain top, which has a beautiful lake next to it. We have a big open fire as a storm rages outside and this lifts everyone`s spirits.

Amily and Benoit (a young couple on their honeymoon), prepare some pasta and the rest of us put whatever we have on the table. Everyone puts up 3 euros and one hiker named Carlos (who the day before was charged by a bull and ended up falling into the river) provides the wine. Turns out to be quite a feast, with cheeses, saussison, break, fruit, chocolates. Everyone has a great time and during the course of the evening i find myself conversing entirely in French for the first time- a big moment. I think the wine helped too.

TIP: Very important to finish the day on a high- good and plenty food, plus good company. Its a good reward and encourages the spirit for the next day.

Day 8 St Chely d`Aubrac-Espalion 28th August

Stage 7

23.7 Klms, 270 m

Rain again today, but we trek through ancient forests and through medieval `hameaux`(hamlets). I walk alone in the forests with the rain filtering down through the trees and mists in the valleys.

After four days of rain, my wet weather clothes give up and i am soaked, but amazingly my cheap `air cooled` boots are holding up due to a weatherproofing spray Hartmut put on them.

During a break for lunch, I see Hartmut and Ermghart pass by and hail them. They both look great and are feeling better as the trip goes on. I give them both a massage before saying goodbye. We never know if we will meet again on the trek.

Espalion is a bit like Le Puy en Velay- a tranquil river and ancient stoned roads, buildings and of course churches. However, the restauranteurs are again a bit rude and inhospitable.

My smile meter however remains at 7/10

Day 7 Nasbinals- St Chely d`Aubrac 27th August

Stage 6

15.9 Klms

Rain again,but beautiful endless plains. The group spirit is a comfort against the conditions, which are changeable in the mountains.

Earlier most of us visited the old church at Nasbinal and then i provided massages for all takers at the Sunday market next to the church.

Each town or village has an amazing church. Quite ethereal to just walk in from the heat or rain and sit there in quiet contemplation.

A local vendor seranades Raphaelle at Nasbinal.

We arrive in St Chely and finally find a place to eat. The local villagers are friendly but i find the restauranteurs a bit unhospitable. We go to empty places and are told that we need to book, etc. They seem to prefer tourists to pilgrims.

Anyway, we have a nice dinner and after dinner i ask the group to split into pairs, walk and talk for 15 minutes and then come back with an anecdote that best typifies the time together.

Raphaelle and Rene provide the best entertainment, by presenting a show that mimicks each member of the group. We do this in the main street under the lamplights and its very funny.

For me, the greatest insight is the forming of the group through the little sharing of food and support for each other.

Bert recounts that it is fear that makes us carry burdens more than we need to. He is very wise for his 20 years. He tells me that even though he is an experienced walker he wants to reduce his already light pack by half.

The next day, he leaves early and parts from the group to rejoin his father further afield. We are rapt to see his old straw hat strung on a fence post along the way. A symbol of detachment and abandonment!

Smile meter= 7/10

Day 6 Aumont Aubrac-Nasbinals 26th August

Day 5

26.3 klms

Joined by Raphaelle who arrived late last from Paris, bringing the rain with her.

The back is really bad and I decide to leave my pack behind and have it transported by a taxi service for baggage- a very good idea! I will keep a slow pace behind the others and have the aid of a walking staff.

The march to Nasbinal is beautiful with pastures of endless desolation, speckled with ancient rocks. I am remined of parts of Ireland and also scenes from `Lord of The Rings`. We are buffetted by wind and rain, but the spirit within the group remains strong.

Apart from Rene, we also have Frederick, a Gendarme from Marseilles. Corinne, from Le Puy. Hartmut, a recent retiree from Germany. Ermghart, also from Germany. Latiticia and her mother Mireille from Leon; Bert, a young man from Belgium; Caroline a dancer from Haute Savoie.

Smile meter= 6/10

Day 5 Saint Alban-sur-Limognoble-Aumont Aubrac 25th August

Stage 4

15.2 klms, 250 M

This one was tough on my back and the pain is getting sevre with each step. It was such a relief to finally get here. Went to the pharmacy in the village and was given anti-inflammotories- told to rest, but will try to push on.

Dinner is wonderful and we have a group table at `La Ferme du Barry`, which features a traditional dish called `Aligot` (a glutonous and delicious dish of melted Tome cheese, potato puree, butter, garlic).

After the painkillers and wine I am motivated to do some medieval pantomines,which the patrons of the resturant take in good humour.

There is much banter and good cheer amongst the group and everyone is saying that there is something special about this group of people.

The smile meter however is at 5/10 due to the pain.

Day 4 Saugues- St Alban-sur-Limagnoble 24th August

Stage 3

29.2 Klms, 450M

The hardest day so far, but thankfully no steep climbs. Pastoral scenes typical of the region. Am learning more about the language and culture. It seems France`s cultural heritage owes a lot to this ancient road and the thousands of European pilgrims that came down it with their own traditions. I presume many stayed in various places and started farms, etc. Might explain why the French culture and cuisine is so varied, region by region? Yet most French people i speak with no little about the history of this road. UNESCO recently listed it under its heritage and conservation guide.

A group is forming around some of us solo hikers. Sharing of food and medicines, tips etc. A good feeling or spirit is about us.

Back is really playing up and am feeling the old siatic nerve, with shooting pains down my left side. Shoulders are also very painful from the pack straps. Feel i should rest and evaluate.

Dinner was good at the hostel- 3 courses + breakfast and lodging for 19 euros. I am now the group masseur and many are complaining of sore muscles. The experts say that it will be ok after 4-6 days.

Smile meter however is still 7/10 (must be the company!)

Day 3 St Privat`d Allier- Saugues 23rd August

Stage 2

19.2 klms, 650 M

Departed at 8:30 AM and I realise that the French breakfast of bread, coffee and jams will not be enough to sustain a long days march, so i must develop a strategy to get in the optimum carbs.

Beautiful valleys and pastures on the way to Monistrol d`Allier. The village of St Privat is shrouded in a thick white mist that is very enchanting. Again my French guide book does not tell me that it is many kilometres up the rugged mountain and down steep descents. I note that the Germans have very good pocket sized guides which include topographic maps as well as historic and accommodation information- German efficiency!

Feeling more pains in lower back after steep climbs and descents. Must reduce pack or change pack configuration.

Again I did not book any accommodation, but figure something will work out.

The smile meter is still 7/10

Day 2 Le Puy en Velay- Saint Privat d` Allier

Stage 1- 23.9 klms

Well here we are at the start. At 7AM we are invited to attend a beautiful ceremony in the Cathedral which is lit with many big candles and features The Black Madonna- a statue of the Virgin Mary that was burned by revoluntionaries, but is now restored.

Nuns sing hymms and some of the town folk are gathered to see us off. The priest speaks in many languages and informs us of the thousand years of heritage that we are now a part of. Its a very touching ceremony and we are all given special medallions and asked to each take a prayer left on notepapers by hundreds of people that come here. Mine is from someone called Collette and she soon becomes a travelling companion with me along with the memories of my family and friends that i carry with me.

The walk begins with a steep climb out of the town and valley (a sign of what is to come). The countryside out of the town is wonderful and I see the rooftops and giant statues from the crest of a ridge.

My guide book tells me that the end of the stage is at 600M above sea level, but fails to inform that there are ascents and descents to over 1000 metres.

I arrive at the town of Saint Privat about 6PM and find a gite, as i have booked nothing and will rely on this method at each stage. Along the way I walk with Rene and we meet some of the people from the morning`s ceremony. We find a grocery store and despite the fatigue, cook up a storm of pasta, cheese, bread and wine.

I can feel new muscles starting to complain and old injuries starting to surface. My pack seems too heavy and i start to consider what i really need. Many people have brought too much and worse still, the inexperienced ones have taken new boots.

My smile meter is at 7/10

Day 1 Paris - Le Puy (21st August 2006)

Left Gare de Lyon in Paris by train to Brioude and then bus to Le Puy en Velay for the start.

The uncertainties and anxieties of venture and adventure are a familiar feeling.

Finally arrived in Le Puy around 4 PM and headed straight for the tourist office. As in other places in France they don`t seem to be all that happy to help you when you mention `Le Chemin St Jacques de Compostelle`, despite the fact that 23 000 people went along the route in 2005.

Le Puy is a breathtakingly beautiful medieval town built on volcanic rock. The main spectacles are two huge statues of the Virgin Mary and St. Christopher that are mounted on two high volcanic hills and face each other from two ends of the town. The cathedral is also magnificant in its Romanesque and Gothic design. Visiting either statue incurs a fee so i take a few pics instead and search for the pilgrim credential document (`Creanciale`),which will be stamped at each stage to authenticate my pilgrimage.

I team up with a young German named Rene and we are able to get a room at a hostel `gite` called St. Francois which is located near the Cathedral. With a smuttering of French i discover that the cuisine for dinner is entirely vegetarian and features lentils, a specialty of Le Puy. I excuse myself from this by pointing to my carnivores, which seems to disturb the nuns, so Rene and I settle for a nearby cafe selling cheap but good food.

The gite overlooks the town and i sleep soundly despite the loud snoring all around me in the dormitory.

My smile meter is at 8/10