Day 8 Ostabat- Saint Jean-Pied-de-Port 21.5 klms

Despite the rain, all thoughts are focussed on making the destination of St. Jean-Pied-de-Port.

For me, it has taken three years and between two countries. I had visited the town in 2006 and decided then to do this hike. I had no idea if I could do such a thing, or indeed how long it would take me. The solution is one that all hikers and the wise know: `One step at a time`.

Such a venture is no race and I have met many along the road that were burdened unduly by their own expectations. There is fear about `measuring up`, about other comparisons of performance, all made useless by the vagaries of each passing day, of life in general. This is the fear of our modern times, in our search for perfection. Compare this with the pilgrim of the past, who had wars, pestilence, wolves and bears to contend with. However like then, we are embued by a spirit of perseverance; something to take back from the trail to our lives in general.

There are also many amazing stories that like the stones on the path, are laid deep by successive venturers over many centuries.

We finally make it to the gates of the town and there pose for a photo. I can`t believe that i have hiked some 800 klms to get here. It feels satisfying, but not as much as I thought, for there will be the next year to deal with and the next. This is an endless circuit for those of us enamourned by `Le Chemin` (The Way)

Until the next stage of the journey, `ULTREIA`(Rise up, go further)

Day 7 Aroue-Ostabat 23.5 Klms

Another fresh morning within a fog shrouded valley. The early start gives an advantage against the heat of the day, however doing one or two hours during the hottest period is unavoidable.

Some more wonderful pastoral scenes and I learn more about the Basque culture, which remains pretty unchanged, despite the progress of farming methods,etc. A patriarchial society, until recently only the house owner (male) had a voice at local community meetings. Land and property was passed to the oldest sons, while other siblings had to make do with setting up secondary houses within the property. Many were forced to immigrate to the Americas and Canada, where their farming methods and ethos of hard labour were rewarded.

The Basques are a very proud and parochial people, who seem to have been moulded by their harsh rural life. Physical strength is greatly admired and many games are staged where feats of strength are on display. Latterly this attributes have been used to great success on the Rugby field and towns and cities everywhere boast strong teams. Nearby Biarritz was a recent European Cup winner.

They still remain deeply religious, however I am not sure when conversion occured as various accounts even up to the 1700`s (including Daniel Dafoe`s ``Robinson Carusoe``) describe them as `barbarous`. They are accredited with various successful attacks against Charlemagne`s rearguard on his return from fighting the Moors in Spain, around the town of Roncesvalles on the Spanish side of the Pyrenees.

We decide to go past Ostabat so that we can have a shorter last day and enjoy the attractions of St. Jean Pied a Porte. We stay at the gite Escargot, run by a Basque couple and are deligthed to find that behind their hotel, they have provided an oasis of accommodation and relaxation for pilgrims.

That night we are given a Basque soup that is a lot like Minestrone, a saucy Basque omelette called `Piperade`, which is served with the famous Bayonne ham and sausage. Once again, i am reminded of the great joy that accompanies such food and company and resolve to take this ritual on, as a life-long pursuit. No matter how bad the day might have been, there is a conquest over such things, when we bring together good food and company at the end of the day

Smile meter is 9/10

Day 6 Navarrrenx- Aroue 18.5klms

I prepare my breakfast of ham and eggs and share it with the German Axel, who is most grateful for its fortifying effect. The others depart into the village where our baker host provides them with coffee, croissants, other pastries and bread.

A beautiful sight greats us as we depart. On the left, the valley is shrouded in low lying mist and this spectacle is witnessed on the following morning as well.

Throughout the day we pass beautiful pastoral scenes, grassy pastures and animals grazing. Lunch is as always a time to find much needed shade, as the heat intensifies and water supplies are drained. Usually, a shady meadow or bend in the road and I encourage fellow travellers to stretch.

I am experiencing much pain in my feet from the hard roads we have been walking on. Again, I am delighted by the fact that all food is shared amongst the group and my apetite seems to be returning to normal.

Smile meter is 7/10

Day 5 Arzacq-Arraziguet to Arthez-de-Bearn 29.5klms

A crisp morning greets us as we depart. Each morning entails a 6:30AM rise, after hopefully a good night of sleep. This is not guarenteed of course, due to the snoring of fellow travellers who sleep alongside in the dormitories. There is also the occasional town festival, with its revelers who seem find you no matter where you sleep.

We are now formed into a group of six or seven, among whom is a large German theatrical producer from Berlin, who marches at his own slower speed, but somehow manages to catch the group at dinner time.

Hiking in a group of this size can be difficult as each has his own speed and needs, but when a group does form, it seems that all things average out. There are various times in the day, when some innate energy takes hold and one finds himself at the head of the group. This seems to happen with me when there is a climb involved and i have discovered that this suits me best, without knowing why. My theory is that i have an extended range of movement with my feet, due to high calves and this allows me to take greater strides when climbing.

We are now within the ancient French province of Le Bearn, at the foot of the Pyreneers and south of Gascoyne. With its soft and humid Atlantic climate, the land is fertile for the growing of fruit and wine production. A mixture of shady forests and open pastures for cattle grazing, has provided an economy based on agriculture and I am more and more intrigued by the Basques culture. Where their language and culture originated is a mystery, as their language is not related to French or Spanish.

We arrive at a gite that from the exterior, looks very run down, however within its exterior is a delightful lodge, with an elaborate kitchen. The Brazilian couple Vito and Evani, decide to cook us a traditional dish that looks between a paella and a risotto, which is greatly enjoyed by all.

After a huge meal, Paolo and I are somehow motivated to play squash at the court, which has been built on the property by the owner, who happens to be the village baker and a great host.

Smile meter is 9/10

Day 4 Miramont-Sensacq to Aracq-Arraziguet 17klms

The village of Miramont-Sensacq is very small and the night was spent in the communal gite. This one is hosted in turn by volunteers of the Association St Jacques de Compostelle. Most are retired and our two hosts, a couple in their 60`s, provide a wonderful dinner, which includes soup,magret de canard, rice salad and desert. The lodging is just 8 euros for the night and dinner/breakfast provided for a donation.

The march to Aracq is filled with exitement as I hope to rendezvous with two friends from last year`s pilgrimage. Paolo is a Frenchman of Italian descent who lives in Paris. Despite our close proximity the hectic life there has prevented us from meeting for more than two occasions since i arrived. Le Chemin (The Way) offers the chance to reconnect at a greater level of intimacy. Jean Luc is the other Frenchman living in Dax (near Biarritz.

Along the way in a forest, I pass a tiny medieval chapel, which still welcomes pilgrims as a sanctuary from the heat of the day. It is a welcome respite and a chance for some reflection, as the drops of perspiration spill from my brow.Chapels such has these remained open to pilgrims who in erstwhile days might sleep within overnight. This facility no longer exists, for security reasons. Vandalism and theft now cause locals to lock the doors at night.

Sometimes, one can find a bowl of prayer petitions, left by locals for pilgrims to carry on their behalf. Once again this tradition is dying out.

When Paolo and Jean Luc finally arrive, it is a moment of great joy. It is significant that our individual paths of life, so varied during the last 12 months should intersect at this moment on the pilgrimage. We share a great dinner of duck confit, pasta and salad. Pilgrims at various tables are engaged also in the sharing of experiences along the road. There is always a buzz of celebration at each dinner. The fact that we have all made it through the day`s toil and hazards, is cause enough for great joy.

This time Paolo has befriended a retired Brazilian couple who cannot speak a word of French or English. Paolo interprets for them through Italian and somehow this group of French, Portugese and English speakers can communicate with each other. Again, I truly believe that such things are possible through the sharing of a central premise or cause.

Smile meter is 7/10

Day 3 Aire-sur-l`Adour to Miramont-Sensacq 16 Klms

After I prepare a nice dinner of `Chilli Con Carne` and enjoy a pleasant night`s rest, the road opens again through fields of corn or `maise` as its called here.

Doing another half day, as this will prepare the body, which has not hiked at all since last year. I am being careful to hold my posture correctly, with hips aligned with shoulders. It is important to note that carrying a pack of any weight over such distances, will had significant loads to lower back muscles and spine. Each stop I make, i endeavour to stretch shoulders, back and legs. Lying on the ground also provides needed traction.

I pass beautiful fields, forests and the Pyrenees peaks sometimes come into view, when desending. It is quite awesome and I can only wonder at the zeal of early pilgrims that faced packs of wild animals (including wolves and bears)and robbers.

Having read Sir John Ure`s book ``Pilgrimage-The great adventure of the Middle Ages``, I am astonished by intricate community and socio economic movement that existed along this road. The motivations of those pilgrims were pretty much the same as today, contrasts of those seeking enlightenment and those seeking adventure. The magnitude of the zeal involved is enormous however, as the early pilgrim was not at all sure of a return and if he did in fact return, was an instant celebrity in his home town.

Day 2 Claverie-Aire-sur-l`Adour 25 klms

The scenary improves and the high peaks of the Pyrenees are visible indicating that we are entering Basque country, that unique language and culture that stradles the Pyrenees on the Spanish and French sides.

Inevitably, it takes a while to get used to the concentration needed to find the road signs. There is much construction in this part of the country and so a few detours affect the first few days.

In the middle of the day, I meet an old local farmer who with his braces, stout frame and old cap, looks like the very characterisation of a Basque. He informs that his family have been in the area for 5 generations and his tattered farmhouse would seem to suggest that the lineage might end with him.

Along the way, I pass a timber shelter for pilgrims and later discover that the host of our gite at Aire-sur-l`adour, a carpenter and hiker himself, has provided it. In fact one discovers that the best hosts are those that have undertaken the pilgrimage themselves. They well know the spirit of kinship that fellow pilgrims have and it is easy to spot those that see hospitality as a business only.

Aire-sur-l`Adour is a town steeped in much history having been a Celic, then Roman stronghold, until the Visigoths claimed it as their capital. One of their Princesses was to become martryed (St. Quitterie, beheaded for her conversion to Christianity) and her remains are still to be found in the church there named after her.

The night is spent in the gite `Maison des Pelerins`, hosted by the charismatic Jean Michel, who was so inspired by his first pilgrimage to Santiago that he returned to his town here and promptly opened his own gite to welcome fellow pilgrims. You can immediately sense in him, someone who lives an inspired life. Having borrowed much money from the bank to renovate this old house, he may never make a decent profit from it, but his joy in playing host is evident. He has also the local expert on pilgrimages and was instrumental in opening the welcome services at the local church. As a result of his passion, over 40 volunteers now take it in turns to welcome pilgrims.

Jean Michel informs that the following week, he and his wife will go to the Sahara, near Morocco for a too month trek.

Day 1 Nogaro Monday 18th August 2008

Its hard to believe that a year has transpired since I was here in Nogaro last year on my birthday. I returned to Australia, finalising my work mission there. Then my father fell gravely ill and passed away in January this year. I returned to Paris, battling administration problems, etc.

Le Chemin is an ideal experience to rid myself of such trauma and replenish my energy. It has become a yearly pilgrimage, which has unearthed some fundamental human truths and joy which I now treasure. Most of all, it has given me a sense of what community is about. The absolute need we have,more than ever before, to come together on shared purpose. To engage with people and explore within each, unique contributions to mission.

Nogaro itself however, does not inspire and to my reckoning is the least pleasant of all the towns along Le Chemin thus far from Le Puy en Velay. There is a lack of a welcoming spirit there and the town`s staging of the 500cc motorcyle Grand Prix is in stark contrast to the ethos of pilgrimage. The pilgrim`s gite is also unfortunately situated right next to the race track.

As its late in the day we decide not to spend the night there, but journey towards the first stage destination of Aire-sur-l`Adour. After one hour`s walk, we find a warm welcome in the hamlet of Claverie and rest at the Arblade-le-Haut. This pretty ranch style gite offers great amenities, the most important of which is the kitchen.

Making your own food is the most cost effective way to do Le Chemin and most gites have good kitchens. However it is worth checking out the kitchen and if it does not provide good cooking facilities, the option to take the `demi-pension`, which offers a reasonable priced dinner.

I have decided that the French (and Continental) breakfast is not good for a day of hiking. It is largely based on white bread,sugary spreads and coffee. No complex carbohydrates in sight and as a result your enery levels are severly depleted within a couple of hours of hiking. The fatigue this causes is an open door to injury.

For my purposes, I include proteins (eggs), ham, cereals (bread, where you can find it), muesli, yoghurt and fruit. I find this works best for me and of course, each person is different, based on metabolism.

It does feel good to be back on the trail, however having not been in the best shape, a decision is made to hike a couple of half days to build up condition, before the long days later in the week.